{"id":57,"date":"2019-10-29T15:03:41","date_gmt":"2019-10-29T14:03:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/legadomitico.com\/bsas\/?p=57"},"modified":"2019-10-29T15:06:00","modified_gmt":"2019-10-29T14:06:00","slug":"a-first-timers-art-and-design-guide-to-buenos-aires","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/legadomitico.com\/bsas\/a-first-timers-art-and-design-guide-to-buenos-aires\/","title":{"rendered":"A First-Timer\u2019s Art-and-Design Guide to Buenos Aires"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you\u2019re an appreciator of the arts, there has never been a better time than right now to visit Buenos Aires. The capital has been a cultural hive for artists, intellectuals, and other members of the creative cognoscenti for well over a century, but the attention it commands on the global stage has ramped up in recent years. Buenos Aires hosts one of Latin America\u2019s most influential art fairs (arteBA<\/strong><\/a>); it was crowned UNESCO\u2019s first\u00a0City of Design<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0in 2010; and it was the inaugural participant in 2017\u2019s\u00a0Art Basel Cities<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>program. Though museums and galleries are ubiquitous throughout BA, you don\u2019t need to duck into a white box to get an art fix in this town; the entire city is a canvas. It\u2019s vibrant, multicultural, rich with murals and wheatpastes, and blessed with architectural flourishes inspired by \u2014 some may argue \u201cborrowed from\u201d \u2014 Paris, Madrid, New York, and beyond. It\u2019s the best kind of cultural mashup \u2014 everything from everywhere all at once, synergized into something strangely familiar yet altogether unique.<\/p>\n

Art Basel Cities Week<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0runs from September 6 to 12, and with it comes a multi-venue exhibition featuring newly commissioned and existing works by 18 Argentine and international artists. This coincides with arteBA Fundaci\u00f3n\u2019s\u00a0Gallery Weekend Buenos Aires<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0(September 7 to 9), where more than 40 galleries are staging special exhibitions, studio tours, immersive performances, and art talks. Among the week\u2019s highlights: chats with Argentina\u2019s own\u00a0Luciana Lamothe<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Mariela Scafati<\/a>, plus New York artist Stan VanDerBeek\u2019s\u00a0Cine Dreams<\/em><\/a>, an eight-hour, overnight planetarium projection intended to be slept through. (Whatever strange dreams may come will be recorded in the morning \u2014 it\u2019s called\u00a0art<\/em>, people.) And with nonstop routes running daily from JFK and Newark to Buenos Aires\u2019s\u00a0Ministro Pistarini International Airport<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0(EZE), it\u2019s easier than ever to get down there. Here\u2019s what you don\u2019t want to miss.<\/p>\n

When to Go<\/h2>\n

Because Argentina is located in the Southern Hemisphere, its seasons are reversed. New York\u2019s fall is Buenos Aires\u2019s spring, and you couldn\u2019t pick a lovelier time to visit El Capital Federal. Room rates are more competitive in spring than summer and temperatures linger in the 50s, 60s, and mid-70s from September to November. Best of all: The jacaranda trees bloom in late fall, painting the town purple.<\/p>\n

Where to Stay<\/h2>\n
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The lounge at Legado M\u00edtico.\u00a0Photo: Legado Mitico\/Facebook<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Because Buenos Aires is so spread out and it can take half an hour to move from one neighborhood to the next by taxi, it\u2019s essential to choose your accommodations based on where you expect to spend the most time. Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo are solid bets for arts disciples or anyone planning to do a lot of sightseeing and museum- and gallery-hopping. Airbnb lists many\u00a0stylish apartments<\/a>\u00a0in these areas, but the boutique hotels are neck and neck in the looks department.<\/p>\n

Legado M\u00edtico<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>is well-situated in fashionable Palermo Soho and easily walkable to dozens of restaurants, bars, and shops. The centerpiece of the elegant three-story townhouse is its ambient lounge and library, decorated with floor-to-ceiling bookcases, evocative antiques, large pieces of art, and Andean wool rugs. Eleven rooms, with names like\u00a0El Pintor<\/em>\u00a0and\u00a0El Escritor,<\/em>\u00a0are stuffed with memorabilia themed around O.G. Argentine influencers like Evita Per\u00f3n, Jorge Luis Borges, and tango king Carlos Gardel. The neighbors \u2014 including bars, clubs, and schools \u2014 can be rowdy day and night, but double sets of doors help muffle the sound. (They don\u2019t, however, block it entirely; light sleepers should book elsewhere.) Breakfast at M\u00edtico is a low-key affair, as it is throughout most of Argentina:\u00a0medialunas\u00a0<\/em>(sweet croissants), cereal, yogurt and fruit, cheese and meat, and toast slathered in butter and delightful dulce de leche. Coffee is made fresh daily, but yerba mate (pronounced like\u00a0share-bah maht-A<\/em>) will be served upon request. The flavor is grassy and bitter, like glugging a mouthful of wet earth. Add a little sugar if it\u2019s your first time.<\/p>\n

Where to Eat<\/h2>\n
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Dine in style at Elena.\u00a0Photo: Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

How do you find an American tourist in Buenos Aires? Head to a restaurant at 7 p.m. Like the Spaniards, most Argentines don\u2019t get started on dinner until well after 9. The adjustment can be jarring, so do like the locals do and eat a light breakfast at your hotel or flat, pig out at lunch (typically 1 to 3 p.m.), and then have coffee and pastries around 5 or 6 p.m. This should tide you over till the late-night feasting begins.<\/p>\n

La Cabrera<\/strong><\/a>, a next-level\u00a0parilla<\/em>\u00a0founded by Chef Gast\u00f3n Riveira, is just as popular with Porte\u00f1os as the Brazilian and Chilean tourists who frequent it. Start with a husky link of housemade chorizo and a juicy slab of\u00a0provoleta\u00a0<\/em>(grilled Provolone cheese), then move on to other flame-singed favorites like\u00a0mollejas\u00a0<\/em>(sweetbreads),\u00a0chinchulin trenzado de vaca<\/em>\u00a0(braided cow intestines, which are much tastier than they sound), and\u00a0ojo de bife\u00a0<\/em>(a fork-tender steak fit for a Flintstone).<\/p>\n

More criss-cross grill marks can be found at\u00a0Elena<\/strong><\/a>, a photogenic ladies-who-lunch spot located inside the posh\u00a0Four Seasons<\/a>\u00a0hotel. Beyond the fine aged meats, Chef Juan Gaffuri delivers lighter, more inventive dishes like squid-ink risotto with andouille sausage and smoked dulce de leche cr\u00eapes. Whatever you order, don\u2019t skip the picada, an appetizer\u00a0before<\/em>\u00a0the appetizer, served gratis at most steakhouses in BA. Gaffuri\u2019s picada board changes seasonally, but a recent rendition included house-cured duck prosciutto, Cheddar from the nearby city of Lincoln, raw honeycomb from Santa Fe (a province in northeastern Argentina), and delightfully sweet reconstituted tomatoes.<\/p>\n

Things get weird at\u00a0Ni\u00f1o Gordo<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0in Palermo, a buzzy new restaurant from Pedro Pe\u00f1a and Germ\u00e1n Sitz, the brains behind BA\u2019s ever-slammed\u00a0Chori<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0La Carnicer\u00eda<\/strong><\/a>. From the outr\u00e9 design of the interior (glowing red lanterns, a\u00a0faux<\/em>\u00a0aquarium, rows of bobblehead toys) to the oddball combinations of ingredients (bonito flakes on your dessert?), this is something very\u00a0different<\/em>\u00a0for Buenos Aires. The atmosphere is fun, the open kitchen a joy to observe, and a handful of the dishes (like miso flan and sushi rice with an egg yolk bathed in soy sauce and rice-wine vinegar) are outstanding. The restaurant seats in two shifts (8 p.m. and 10:30 p.m.), so reservations are a must.<\/p>\n

For more traditional, stick-to-your ribs Argentine fare, there\u2019s\u00a0Pulperia Quilap\u00e1n<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>in San Telmo. The farm-to-table restaurant occupies a 300-year-old mansion whose throwback decor is peppered with sky-blue pennant flags and\u00a0ping\u00fcinos<\/em>, a penguin-shaped wine pitcher unique to Argentina. Order a platter of plump, crispy-edged, Salta-style empanadas stuffed with chopped beef or eggplant and\u00a0locro<\/em>, a hearty stew brimming with corn, vegetables, and less-favored cuts of beef. (When Merriam-Webster did a deep dive on the\u00a0the meat sweats<\/a>, it failed to mention Argentina; for a lighter lunch or dinner option, pick up a falafel sandwich and tabbouleh salad from\u00a0Chelv\u00ede<\/strong><\/a>, a charming Lebanese eatery tucked inside the covered\u00a0San Telmo Market<\/strong><\/a>.)<\/p>\n

What to Do<\/h2>\n
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The Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes was established in 1896.\u00a0Photo: Jeff Greenberg\/UIG via Getty Images<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

There are certain things every virgin to Buenos Aires does, and you should, too, because they\u2019re worthwhile. Take a long stroll through Palermo Gardens, the city\u2019s answer to Central or Hyde Park. Here you\u2019ll find a pretty, artificial lake; the 8.4-acre\u00a0Rosedal de Palermo<\/strong><\/a>, a Carlos Thays\u2013designed rose garden with 18,000 blooms and a striking Greek bridge; and the UFO-like\u00a0Galileo Galilei Planetarium<\/strong><\/a>, a postcard megastar that has been entertaining field-trippers since the 1960s. The park is a fine place to people watch because everybody gathers here: joggers, cyclists, rollerbladers, benchwarmers in sweater vests, and dog walkers with a dozen-plus hounds leashed up their arms. Keep your eyes peeled for limeade-green parakeets and sapphire-blue\u00a0tordos<\/em>\u00a0flitting among the tall, skimpy Araucaria trees and gnarled omb\u00fas, and take note of the round nests of the\u00a0rufous hornero<\/em>, the national bird of Argentina. (Locals believe it\u2019s good luck when you spot one on a national monument.)<\/p>\n

Next, take a tour of\u00a0Teatro Col\u00f3n<\/strong><\/a>, one of the grandest theaters on the planet. The stage was inaugurated on May 25, 1908, with a performance of Giuseppe Verdi\u2019s\u00a0A\u00efda<\/em>; the chandeliers and stained glass are from France, the mosaic tiles from Italy, and the costumes displayed in the grand lobby from operas of yore. If your timing is good, your guide may even invite you sit in the balcony and observe a few minutes of a ballet or symphony rehearsal \u2014 a surreal experience.<\/p>\n

For a behind-the-scenes look at another architectural marvel, sign up for a sunset tour of Mario Palanti\u2019s\u00a0Palacio Barolo<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0in Monserrat. The office building, erected between 1919 and 1923, was inspired by Dante Alighieri\u2019s\u00a0The Divine Comedy<\/em>: 22 stories mirror the narrative poem\u2019s 22 stanzas, with Hell starting in the basement, Purgatory taking the middle floors, and Paradise saved for the very highest reaches of the Palacio\u2019s still-operational lighthouse (100 meters = 100 cantos). The architecture blends neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic influences with Hindu design flourishes \u2014 not that you\u2019ll notice any of that once you get an eyeful of the 360-degree views at the top. If you weren\u2019t convinced Buenos Aires was big before, the density of its cityscape, stretching out forever in every direction, will surely change your mind. On the clearest days, you can even see Uruguay from here.<\/p>\n

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La Recoleta Cemetery holds the graves of Eva Per\u00f3n, writer Adolfo Bioy Casares, and a granddaughter of Napoleon.\u00a0Photo: Jeff Greenberg\/UIG via Getty Images<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Another must for first-timers is\u00a0Recoleta Cemetery<\/strong><\/a>. Founded in 1822, it was the first public cemetery in BA. Like Palacio Barolo and Buenos Aires itself, Recoleta\u2019s crypts and mausoleums dabble in a glut of architectural styles: Neoclassical, Neo-Gothic, Art Deco, Art Nouveau, Baroque. While most tourists make a beeline for the final resting place of Evita, every fourth tomb in this labyrinthine graveyard is deserving of a second look. Take that of 26-year-old Liliana Crociati de Szaszak. The young bride died in an avalanche while honeymooning in Innsbruck, Austria. Legend has it, her beloved dog Sab\u00fa died at the same time, on the same day, for no explicable reason, back home in Argentina. Their graves are marked by bronze statues of woman and canine; the nose of the dog, however, is a different color from the rest of the sculpture because so many visitors have rubbed it for good luck. (The groundskeepers discourage this.)<\/p>\n

A few doors down from the necropolis is\u00a0Centro Cultural Recoleta<\/strong><\/a>, a government-run art center with a stacked events calendar. This is where\u00a0Fuerza Bruta<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0shows are staged, along with weekend flea markets, photography exhibitions, and street-art invitationals. Although the space is under renovation through fall, curators are still putting on compelling gallery shows \u2014 like \u201cNaturaleza Muerta\u201d by Argentine art collective\u00a0Doma<\/strong><\/a>, which invited visitors to pass through an elongated coffin, then walk down a red carpet rigged with motion-triggered paparazzi cameras.<\/p>\n

This is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to exploring the arts.\u00a0Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>is a six-minute walk from the CCR. With 24 exhibition halls and more than 12,000 pieces, it\u2019s home to the largest public collection of artworks in Latin America. The space emphasizes impressionist and post-impressionist masters (Manet, Gauguin, Degas), practitioners of the avant garde (Klee, Modigliani, L\u00e9ger), and works by the most lauded Argentine artists in history (Pueyrred\u00f3n, Della Valle, C\u00e1ndido L\u00f3pez). It\u2019s a phenomenal assemblage and \u2014 get this \u2014\u00a0free<\/em>\u00a0to visit.<\/p>\n

For a more contemporary fix, head to the\u00a0Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0<\/strong>(MALBA)\u00a0<\/strong>in Palermo. The museum presents one major international show per year (currently, it\u2019s\u00a0Cindy Sherman with Richard Prince<\/a>), one Latin American, and one Argentinian. The permanent collection, meanwhile, focuses exclusively on Latin American art and includes pieces by environmental artist Nicol\u00e1s Garc\u00eda Uriburu, who famously dyed Venice\u2019s canals green the night before the Biennale, and stylistically polar works by Antonio Berni, including one fashioned with materials he sourced from Argentina\u2019s\u00a0villas miseria<\/em>, or slums.<\/p>\n

At the\u00a0Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0(MAMBA) in San Telmo, the art takes an even darker, bolder, and more political turn; exhibitions like \u201cThe Social Body: Pushing the Boundaries in Turbulent Times\u201d don\u2019t shy away from tough topics, like art created in response to the military dictatorships that overthrew democratic governments in Paraguay and Argentina from the mid-1950s to the 1980s. In another section, you\u2019ll find brow-furrowing collages by late Argentine artist Le\u00f3n Ferrari, parodying violent passages depicted in the Bible. At next-door neighbor and fellow acronym lover MACBA, a.k.a. the\u00a0Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Buenos Aires<\/strong><\/a>, the focus is on \u201cgeometric abstraction,\u201d with an emphasis on op-art and concrete works by Argentine artists like Enio Iommi and Gyula Kosice.<\/p>\n

Over in Puerto Madero, home to Santiago Calatrava\u2019s frequently \u2019grammed\u00a0Puente de la Mujer<\/em>\u00a0footbridge, you\u2019ll find the outstanding\u00a0Colecci\u00f3n de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat<\/strong><\/a>. The subterranean floors are devoted to a prized collection of Argentinian art, including Emilio Pettoruti\u2019s twin harlequin paintings\u00a0El Indeciso<\/em>\u00a0and\u00a0La Resistencia<\/em>. Surprise objects like Egyptian mummy masks live in the upstairs wing, alongside special exhibitions: Currently, Carlos Alonso\u2019s excellent \u201cVida de Pintor<\/a>\u201d (through October 7). The show reflects on the life and times of Frida Kahlo, Vincent Van Gogh, Gustave Courbet, and other artists in a way that grabs you by the jugular and doesn\u2019t let go.<\/p>\n

After you\u2019ve made the museum rounds, check out some of BA\u2019s smaller galleries (Hollywood in Cambodia<\/strong><\/a>,\u00a0HILO<\/strong><\/a>,\u00a0Galer\u00eda Mar Dulce<\/strong><\/a>, etc.), many of which are clustered in trendy Palermo and neighboring Villa Crespo.\u00a0Gachi Prieto<\/strong><\/a>, which was named for its bilingual founder (she spent years living in the United States and would be happy to tour you through the gallery in English or Spanish), represents 20 Latin American artists, half of them established and the rest inching toward the cusp. Or, for an even more curated art, architecture, and design tour, reach out to Basel-approved guide Vanessa Bell, journalist for\u00a0Wallpaper<\/em>\u00a0and\u00a0Monocle<\/em>\u00a0and founder of the six-year-old boutique agency\u00a0Cr\u00e8me de la Cr\u00e8me<\/strong><\/a>. Her art outings are fully customizable and Bell, whose mother is Argentine, speaks fluent English.<\/p>\n

Where to Shop<\/h2>\n
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Shop for books at El Ateneo Grand Splendid.\u00a0Photo: Daniel Garcia\/AFP\/Getty Images<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Buenos Aires has more bookstores per person \u2014 734 at last count, says\u00a0The Guardian<\/em><\/a>\u00a0<\/em>\u2014 than any other city in the world.\u00a0El Ateneo Grand Splendid<\/strong><\/a>, a stunning century-old theater turned bookshop, is the most\u00a0Instagram famous<\/a>, but don\u2019t stop your hunting there. Bustling\u00a0Avenida Corrientes\u00a0<\/strong>is known for three things: theaters, pizzerias, and bookstores that stay open late. (Interestingly, you can visit just about any bookstore in BA and you\u2019ll notice a sizable section devoted to psychoanalysis; Porte\u00f1os are\u00a0obsessed<\/em>\u00a0with Freud. As one local noted, only weirdos don\u2019t go to therapy.) Palermo Soho has\u00a0Dain Usina Cultural<\/strong><\/a>, a converted colonial-style house stuffed to the bursting point with tomes about art and architecture. San Telmo has cozy\u00a0Walrus Books<\/strong><\/a>, the city\u2019s go-to for English-language titles, and\u00a0El Rufi\u00e1n Melanc\u00f3lico<\/strong><\/a>, a chaotically organized used bookstore run by the loveliest fellow. Many books are caked in a layer of dirt, but it\u2019s the digging that makes stumbling upon something amazing all the more sweet. Just BYO hand wipes.<\/p>\n

For high-quality, made-in-Argentina souvenirs,\u00a0Facon<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0in Palermo is the place to shop. The beautifully curated boutique stocks handwoven tapestries from the northern province of Catamarca, delicate mortar-and-pestle sets, chunky knit blankets, and the finest gaucho knives. The shop owner does a fine job explaining what you\u2019re buying, who made it, and how \u2014 so you\u2019ll actually have a story to tell when you get your purchase home. Elsewhere in Palermo,\u00a0Todo Mates<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0sells yerba-mate drinking vessels fashioned from hollowed-out gourds, palo santo, cow hooves, and more \u2014 not to mention bags of the antioxidant-rich shrub, packaged according to caffeine strength.<\/p>\n

In town on a Sunday? Lucky you. The renowned\u00a0Feria de San Telmo\u00a0<\/strong>antiques market in Plaza Dorrego has vendors spilling into the surrounding blocks and setting up shop all along La Defensa Alley. If you\u2019re in the market for brass pieces, silverware, old telephones, wooden buttons, sheepskin throws, Polaroid cameras, or Evita ephemera, you\u2019ve come to the right place. Among the most popular souvenirs travelers pick up here are vintage glass syphons. Those who care about authenticity should look for green, blue, or clear models; snazzier colors like red, yellow, pink, and purple are not true originals. Also worth a look in San Telmo: affordable art shop\u00a0Quorum<\/strong><\/a>, which sells cool, mostly limited-edition works by Latin American painters, printmakers, photographers, and sculptors; and\u00a0Taller Galer\u00eda Dawa<\/strong><\/a>, one of the city\u2019s best shops for locally handmade ceramics.<\/p>\n

Where to Hang After Dark<\/h2>\n
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Dance the night away at La Viruta Tango Club.\u00a0Photo: Courtesy of La Viruta Tango Club<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Why are so many restaurants, shops, and museums closed on Mondays in Buenos Aires? Because everyone is saving up their energy for\u00a0La Bomba de Tiempo<\/strong><\/a>. For more than a decade, this wildly popular percussionist group has dominated Monday nights, turning the warehouselike\u00a0Ciudad Cultural Konex<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0into a sweaty, smoky, throbbing dancehall. Senegalese band leader Cheikh Gueye and his cohorts use a system of 90 hand signals to direct the pounding improvisation. The crowd goes more and more nuts as the beat picks up, then chills to a happy buzz when rotating special guests \u2014 like gaucho folk heroes\u00a0D\u00fao Coplanacu<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0\u2014\u00a0take the stage.<\/p>\n

For travelers hoping to experience a taste of tango culture beyond the hyper-choreographed tourist shows and theatrically attired couples dancing for pesos in San Telmo\u2019s Plaza Dorrego, there are\u00a0milongas<\/em>, where everyday Argentines go to dance tango socially. These don\u2019t get hopping until after midnight and most Argentines go to two or three in the course of an evening.\u00a0La Academia Tango Club<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0takes over the dance floor every Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night at the Cangas del Narcea Asturian Center in Palermo. A laptop D.J. drops vintage tango songs to warm up the crowd until the live orchestra takes over around 12:30 or 1 a.m. Couples glide in tandem across the floor, some of them tangling their still-learning feet as they go. Others sit at tables, scanning the darkened room and making eyes at whomever they\u2019d like to dance with next. (With tango, you never just\u00a0ask<\/em>\u00a0someone to dance; it saves face for both parties if they aren\u2019t interested.) Unlike the rose-between-the-teeth whiplash dance moves you see in Hollywood depictions of tango, the real dance is much softer, smoother, and arguably more sensual.<\/p>\n

La Viruta Tango Club<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0La Catedral Club<\/strong><\/a>\u00a0are two other milongas well-suited to travelers, says Joe Foley, a British journalist who fell hard for BA\u2019s tango culture years ago; he now moonlights as a dance instructor and milonga-hopping tour guide. It\u2019s okay to just go and observe (learning to dance tango takes years of practice), but if you don\u2019t want to be the lone foreigner sitting by yourself at the club, sign up for a three-hour private tour with\u00a0TangoTrips<\/strong><\/a>. A seasoned pro like Foley will escort you to two milongas and explain the sociocultural history behind everything you\u2019re seeing and doing. Hour-long private tango classes can be added for for an additional fee, should you wish to learn the finer points of leading, following, and generally not making a fool of yourself.<\/p>\n

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Source:\u00a0Nymag<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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